Monday, May 21, 2007

555 Timer-Based Flyback Transformer Driver



My 24kV high voltage "Jacob's Ladder" from DIY flyback transformer driver using 555 timer.

Creating an electric arc

I've always wanted to create an electric arc but don't know how. Then I come across the theory that air breaks down at about 1MV/m (Mega Volts per meter) (24kV/in). That mean you need 1kV in order to get 1mm arc. So you need a higher voltage. One of the method is to use a flyback transformer that can be found from an old TV or an old CRT PC monitor. It could generate about 10 to 30 kV. Other method is to create a "tesla coil" which is quite complicated. Maybe it will become my next project.

Flyback transformer and preparation

Flybacks can be found in all types of monitors and screens that use a cathode ray tube (CRT), e.g. TV sets, computer monitors etc. It has a big red cable with a suction cup. It looks something like below.



Next, you need to identify the primary and secondary pin out. Thanks to "Lab HV-PS page" for providing an instruction on how to find the pinout. The main HV out on the secondary coil is a big red cable with a suction cup. Now we need to find the 0V pinout for the secondary coil. The trick is to use a DC power supply. This is because the flyback secondary coil resistance is much too high. There is no way you could find it with ordinary digital multimeter.



So use your own understanding on the circuit below to find the 0V pinout. Give it about 12V and your meter should show some volts when you find the 0V pinout. For me, just to be safe, try to find a datasheet of the flyback transformer or try to find the TV or old CRT PC monitor service manual/schematics diagram to find the pinout like below. Most modern flybacks include built-in HV rectifier diode(s) and/or voltage multiplier (tripler) so output without additional components will be high voltage positive or somewhat smoothed HV DC. So, make sure your polarity is correct.



Unless you have one of these multimeter, you should get the resistance reading out of it. From my FLUKE 189 multimeter you can see that it shows more than a hundred Mega Ohm. That is why ordinary meter could not measure it because of it's limit. Below I test two types of flybacks with 112 Mega Ohm and the other about 522 Mega Ohm. Again, polarity is critical to get the reading.



To find the primary coil is a much simple than the secondary coil. The primary coil resistance is about 1 ohm and again I confirm this with a TV or old CRT PC monitor service manual/schematics diagram. In my case I could only get 0.45 ohm.



Creating the flyback driver (20kHz with 90% duty cycle)

Thanks to "Jonathan Filippi" for the idea. My circuit is quite different. I try to fix up the frequency and duty cycle with help from simulation software. I use "Electronic Workbench" to simulate the circuit which can generate about 20kHz with 90% duty cycle and I come out with this. Using 555 timer to generate 20kHz with 90% duty cycle. Next I try to put it on the breadboard and test the output from it. I get about 18kHz with 85% duty cycle. Jonathan Filippi is using 2N3904 and 2N3906 but I'm using c1815 (npn) and a1015 (pnp). I found out that you can use any multipurpose transistor and I could find it on my old TV board. For the MOSFET, Jonathan Filippi is using IRF840 but I'm using IRF630. You may try to find it's equivalent and experiment with it. Just make sure it is compatible if you want to use other types of MOSFETs. Find it's data sheet and compare the characteristic for both types of components.



Before assemble it, I test this circuit with a small transformer which I can find it on the same old TV board. Since I'm getting too excited, the quick test is to connect the output to the lowest resistance coil. I test it with a limit resistor and surprise, I can get a hundred volt out of that.



Next is to plan to transfer it to the stripboard/veroboard. Here is the stripboard layout and the assembled circuit board. Make sure you mount the MOSFET to a heat sink since it going to heat up while running/powering it up. Note that I put the 150 ohm "snubber" resistor and diode near the flyback. This is to suppress ("snub") electrical transients that might damage of the circuit.



Again, I test the assembled circuit board with the same small transformer and I could get a neon to light up. This mean I'm getting about hundred volts. Neon needs about 80V or higher in order to light up.



Test it out

Now it time to test it out. Get a high power supply for this test. Don't use an expensive lab power supply for this test. It might burn or damage. For me, I'm using a 12V DC battery charger that can give about 5 Amps. You may also try a car battery if you have one.



There is an arc!. At last, I could get an arc out of it. I try to measure the initial max. length and I could get about 24mm. Thus, it is about 24kV. Remember the theory 1MV/m?.





I measure the DC operating current. It is about 5 Amps. I've blown my DC power supply fuse in the process. Maybe I need a bigger power supply :-) . At least I've got some arcs.



Good luck!

Friday, April 6, 2007

Simplest Intercom


Using old phones


Using your old phones, you could create personal "micro" telephone exchange as simple as above circuit.
I manage to solder the test circuit less than a minute. Than connect the phone and test it.
It works. So why 39 ohm?
From
Epanorama Dot Net
,
the correct value of the resistor should be a resistor that can limit the circuit current around 30mA total loop.
The method is by replacing the resistor in the circuit with a variable resistor, plug in the phones, apply power and tune the current
with the variable resistor so the current flow is 30mA.
After that take out the variable resistor and measure the resistance/ohm across it.
Find the fixed resistor with the nearest ohm reading to it and replace it to the circuit.

Simplest Circuit



Testing In Progress


Saturday, March 24, 2007

Simple Cable Tester


Simple DIY Cable Continuity Tester





How to use


This simple cable tester can be used to check 2 wire cable such as coax cable, telephone cable, audio cable and etc.
Power the circuit using 9V battery.
Plug in the cable and push "TEST" button.
The dummy resistor is connected to the end of the cable which has 75ohm resistor inside.
The tester will show only 3 conditions, "SHORT", "OPEN" and "GOOD".











How it works


The method is to check resistance of the dummy resistor at the "Terminator".
The idea is simple.
Imagine there is a short circuit cable under testing.
The wire will act as nearly zero ohm resistor thus making the voltage divider near the dummy resistor to divide the 9V into 4.5V.
Calculate it your self [ ( 1k / ( 1k + 1k ) ) * 9V = 4.5V ].
4.5V is below than the lower "Comparator" limit (Vref 4.57V).
It will trigger the lower "Comparator" and make "Short" LED to light up.
Now for the open circuit cable.
Assuming the open circuit cable has an infinite ohm.
Voltage divider near the dummy resistor will give 9V.
This is more than the upper "Comparator" limit (VRef 4.8V) and will trigger make "Open" LED light up.
Other than that (both lower and upper "Comparator" didn't trigger) the "GOOD" LED will light up.
For the op-amp, I'm using JRC4558 dual op-amp since I have it in my stock.
You may use 741 op-amp or other multi-purpose op-amp.
Learn more about op-amp here






Vref tuning


Before turning on the circuit (power it up),
tune the potentiometer so that it will give the correct voltage reference to the "Comparator"s.




  • Upper "Comparator" = 4.8V

  • Lower "Comparator" = 4.57V






Extra - Low battery indicator


The extra circuit supplied is to check the battery condition.
Low battery voltage (below than ~6.9V) will show "RED" light up.
Else will show "GREEN" LED light up.
The basic, if there is a small amount of current go through the zener (reverse bias),
the first transistor (left) will be turned on making the "GREEN" LED turn on.
Other than that the second transistor (right) will be turned on and "RED" LED will light up.







Modification - Add in buzzer


You add in buzzer to the circuit to make it give an audible alarm.
The best is to alert us whenever the cable under test is not "GOOD".
So, adding a resistor, transistor and a buzzer/beeper to the last NAND (near "GOOD" LED) will do the job.
Use your own creativity for this. :-).



Modification - Without NAND? (update)


You can use circuit above as replacement. Only some resistors and a transistor will do. Please refer to Water Level Indicator for more info.

Testing XLR cable (update)




Since XLR cable have 3 wires, it can be tested by connecting 2 wires at a time as image above. Use crocodile clip for easy access.

Sunday, February 25, 2007

Upgrading DivX Player Firmware

Upgrading DivX Player Firmware



Planning to upgrade your DivX player using CD? Good idea but if anything happen, your player will be dead.
In order to revive it, you need to re-flash it.



Refer here for more information about re-flashing your DivX player.


Upgrading a dead player - By DivXpert.




You can download some recommended softwares from their site and try it out.
Now the fun part, you need a hardware interface from your computer to the player.
Recommended hardware interface by DivXpert is standard Serial Data Cable for mobile phone.
So I built one.




Identifying The Upgrade Port



  • Open up your player and find the main PCB & the upgrade port.

  • Most of them have 4 pins [3.3V],[TX],[RX],[GND].

  • Find the label for each pin under the PCB.










What You Need




  • I found out that the male audio input connector from the old sound card
    is suitable for the upgrade port. Use it if you have one.

  • Old mouse cable match the female connector to this type of connector.

  • Find a cheap mobile serial data cable/ I'm using Nokia 3210 data cable.








Install & Join It Together










My Other Version of Cable







After that?



Please refer to
"
Upgrading a dead player - By DivXpert.
"
for the software usage on how to upgrade.
They provide the latest firmware for your Player.


Good Luck